Seed is best sown fresh.
If however you grow other varieties or species in the vicinity, it is unlikely that they will grow true to type as they readily hybridise.
Please do not sell or pass on plants under the parent name, but mark it as an ex seedling of whatever the parent plant was.
I use a mix of half John Innes loam based compost and half grit.
The seed is thinly sown into 9 cm plastic pots, dressed with fine grit and placed uncovered in the tunnel.
The seedlings are left in the pot until the following spring before pricking out into individual small pots.
Tulbaghia can flower in as little as 18 months from seed.
Tulbaghia are readily propagated by division.
Firstly untangle the roots and wash off the compost to expose the rhizome.
While some species are able to be simply pulled apart, others form very congested clumps and the best method is to employ the use of a sharp knife or scalpel.
To reduce stress, I usually cut back the foliage at the same time before potting up.
The only requirements are that the compost should be open and free-draining.
Because I am Peat free, I use a free draining bark based compost with added grit/sand plus some loam such as John Innes to retain the moisture in summer. In addition I also add a slow release fertiliser.
However Tulbaghia are reasonably adaptable and it is better to stick to the growing media you are used to.
Dave Fenwick used to employ the use of compost obtained from growbags, in particular brands with coarse grades of peat.
I have also had success with coir with added grit/sand/perlite and loam. It’s very much trial and error.
The smaller, high altitude species, Tulbaghia montana, T. leucantha, and T. galpinii require much sharper drainage. ⅔ compost ⅓ grit, or even ½ compost and ½ grit.
Mulch with ½” layer of round aquarium gravel or grit to protect the surface from drying out and suppress weeds.
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